Surfing as a motivator


My supreme indecision was discovered shortly before I graduated from high school in 2008.  It was the fall of my senior year and I was pulling off my wetsuit in the middle of Scenic Dr. right next to Carmel beach.  It was cloudy and had been raining earlier while I was out in the water; passerbys stared in wonder at how I was able to conjure the courage to enter the frigid California water.  An elderly woman with a black cane resting under a large rubber handle murmured, concerned, from her parka hood that I should be careful not to “turn into an icicle” out here.  I made a mental note, and continued changing leisurely.

The time was fast approaching to apply to colleges, and all I knew was that I wanted to be able to surf wherever I ended up going to school.  Dreams of becoming a professional surfer, though they had never fully manifested in my head, seemed to be completely out of the question considering I was barely better than the mediocre surfers at Carmel beach; not a particularly impressive feat in itself.  So, I was forced to make a decision: where to apply to colleges.  My parents stressed the importance of the education, and paid little regard to the location or beach accessibility but I wanted both.  I applied to a myriad of colleges, and got into a few but thankfully the decision was easy: I got a large scholarship to Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles.  The best part? The school’s 5 minutes from the beach!  Now, the decision that started it all and that which I still struggle with: what did I want to do with my life?
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Write by: Dj Eviena - Thursday, April 21, 2011

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