We had the buoys jump early in the morning from 2ft at 5sec to 4ft at 12sec in three hours allowing the Irene swell to grace our beaches. We had waves fro waist high to a bit over head on sets with long lines some closing out. Its a shame our beach cant hold 4-5 ft swell. We have all beach break due to a flat sand bottom. Long sets close out . A few gems were had and they had size and speed. Dont know what the next couple days will bring but today was O so fun..
The new PSH 9-6 WAA handled the waves and it was nice to have confidence under your feet dropping into some of these beach break thumpers...
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Dj Eviena - Wednesday, August 24, 2011
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